Line

It's Concept

Paris 
In every aspect of his execution, Rick Owens’ mesmerised at Paris Fashion Week through his subdued use of colour, extreme silhouettes and a focus on highly haunting conceptualism. Inspired by Picasso’s cardboard cut-outs of white doves, the elegance, sophistication and use of rigidity in material evokes feelings of freedom and a sense of spine chilling dominance.

In complete contrast to the heat of acid colours shown in Milan and London, Paris became alive with ideas of androgyny, Rock Chic and couture punk. Maison Martin Margiela embraces his ability to drastically distort the female figure within his latest collection through his concept of ‘men’s wardrobe meets the woman’s body’.  Radically squared off shoulders and clean, crisp shapes embrace the female body and a sense of the clothing restricting the model is apparent. An injection of hot pink intrudes the very neutral palette and only momentarily distracts you from the drastically distorted silhouette.

Similarly, Viktor and Rolf have opted for the man’s shirt as inspiration creating short shirtdresses, some of which were tailored one side and softly draped off the shoulder creating the perfect balance of fluidity with a masculine punch. A tribute to mid west America saw the unforgiving intensity of studded jackets, distressed pin embellished shorts and unapologetic attitudes presented by the top models of today. Balmain’s newest collection can only be described as ‘hardcore’ couture punk. Accompanying 1000-dollar shorts with distressed tights and shredded jeans showed the gritty influences of the collection that came just two days into Paris Fashion Week, this was a stark contrast to the optimistic colours of Milan. A cross over of masculine and feminine clothing is echoed in the punk couture collection by Balenciaga. Reminiscent of 80’s British fashion, the rigorous collection boasted hounds tooth patterns, lace and leather.

Volume

Richard Avedon

         Movement. Volume. Silhouette.

It's Missoni

Missoni

Surrounded by names like Christian Dior, Gucci and Gianfranco Fèrre, Missoni stood quite quaintly on Sloane Street and presented itself as clean and minimal, contrasting significantly to the heat of intense pattern and colour within the Autumn/Winter collection.

Upon entering the store simplicity in layout is immediately contradicted by highly graphic print and a use of warm, intrusive colour in the clothing. The collection unleashes an unavoidably natural and multicultural feel through a combination of inviting colours, graphic pattern and a varied use of material. Missoni’s recognisable talent with knitwear and experimentation with a multitude of pattern flows throughout the entire store, varying it greatly from surrounding stores of clean cut minimalism. Tribal effects and an essence of Africa meeting Scotland are created by loosely fitted silhouettes juxtaposed by patchwork compositions of graphic print. A Missoni sales assistant described the line as having a ‘new energy of young extravagance’ which was evident in the display of Autumn/Winter yet also in the new Spring/Summer 2011 collection. Kaleidoscopic effects of acid colours dominate the new Spring/Summer line and an evolution from Fall is exciting to witness.

The ground floor incorporates aspects of serenity and warmth, contrasting significantly to the hustle and bustle of Sloane Street. Pivoting around a centre table promoting shoes and accessories, the clothing’s graphic quality creates the perfect interior design oozing with Missoni style. Two mannequins stood either side of the entrance demonstrating the clothes ability to bind, embrace and hide the body but also showing movement and ease by silhouettes sliding, falling and floating from the figure. A key trend in every style of the Missoni collection was the use of an oversized neckline that added an interesting element to the simple silhouetted evening dresses. After a twenty five minute stay of exploration and note taking, it was evident that the collection appealed to a younger demographic who were clearly mesmerised by the tribal and graphic affects of the collection. The expensive price tags often starting at 6-800 pounds is somewhat justified by the fact that it is an investment into one of the most sought after labels from Milan.

Missoni’s first floor continued to embrace the importance of colour and print however presented more variety in style. Amongst the oversized silhouettes of patchwork garments were beautifully constructed evening dresses maintaining the iconic ingredients of the Missoni style. Optic qualities encapsulate when witnessing the garments as an inclusion of aluminium thread amongst knit work creates a youthful energy of shimmering fabric, whilst still retaining a sophisticated edge. As well as embracing the sheer fabrics and warm colours first hand, the first floor echoed the collection by film creating a new energy of movement and motion in both the clothing and the store. In addition to clothing, home collections that are now being sold at Harrods clearly expressed the three dimensional graphic quality that ran throughout the Missoni store and consisted mainly of pillows and candles. An obvious absence within the collection was single coloured garments; this was due to ‘merchandising difficulties’ and a lack of sales in this particular style, therefore explaining the vast amounts of graphic print.

Textural Extravagance

Anthropologie

When entering Regent Street’s Anthropologie store decorative excess hits you immediately with multicoloured chandeliers, grass covered walls and vintage style ornaments. Arguably distracting your eye from the clothes, the shop presentation felt relevant to the collection however overpowering and dominant.

Within the shop window and when entering the doors, large sculptures and patchwork draping set the mood of textural extravagance which spiralled up and down large open plan staircases to two extra floors. Focusing on a shopping ‘experience’, Anthropologies’ clothing plays with a mix of many different styles, themes and trends varying from knit, vast amounts of colour and an older style of print and pattern. This provides a great deal of choice but a signature style is lacking. Upon being greeted into the store with enthusiasm by staff, customers appeared to enjoy the experience of Anthropologie but it was obvious that an equal amount of time was spent observing the decoration of the store as there was on the clothes.

Un-daring, sophisticated and mature clothing is displayed within the store and for an older audience the clothing is conservative with a punch of colour and averaging at a price of £150 for coats, trousers and dresses. Elements of interest can be seen in the texture of pieces like gathering, weaving and knit work, creating a very organic look and feel. Print was used quite frequently throughout the store however unlike Missoni no real trend or them within the print was evident. Missoni’s look was immediately created by the clothing and a graphic energy was obvious, however, Anthropologie in my opinion relies more on the interior of the store to make what is on sale appealing.

The shop windows sculpture and two largely suspended chandeliers of many different colours accompany you when walking up to the first floor of the shop and reminded me of an exhibition I saw at Haunch of Venison in London. Joana Vasconcelos’ exhibition uses a mash up of bright, bold and clashing colours that build up an abstract and distorted ‘sculpture’ which was suspended from the ceiling. Quant objects like books and buckets were dotted around the store creating a very vintage and reusable feel and slogans like ‘use it up wear it out, make do or do without’ supported this. The bottom floor of the store contrasts to the other two as only home collections and ornaments were on sale, distancing it to the rest of the store.



Joana Vasconcelos, Haunch Of Venison

Getting Started

Silhouette Illustration. Andrew Voss